Vintage 2019 had a few curveballs up its sleeve but ultimately yielded wines of poise, power and acid drive: 2019 is one for the collectors – their long future is bright indeed.
Each year, the seasonal conditions determine the level of our own personal riesling indulgence. That is how many wines we are able to make, or more accurately how many our certified organic vineyards allow.
In 2019, five individual rieslings wines were made. The wet winter was followed by an early spring which dried out quickly as summer approached, but not before a good canopy and fruit set was achieved. Dry conditions continued through summer, into autumn and nearly to harvest, with the resulting fruit intensity looking more than impressive. With dry weather comes cold nights (no clouds) as a result of the continental effect in Frankland River. In 2019 this caused the natural acidity to remain outrageously high for a long time, and it was clear that we had to wait this situation out until some of the friendly, resolved and more rounded acidity that we look for came into the fold. A rain event in early March caused some considerable tension as we knew we had to sit tight and hold off picking what was at that stage, just underripe riesling. It was right on the cusp. Whilst many picked, we held out, nervous as the rain event swelled the berries a little and then thankfully, they started to subside. As the concentration returned it was decided it was time to pick. As a result, sugar ripeness is a little higher than in other years, but a necessary trade-off. Overall the 2019 vintage is considered a very successful riesling season.
Each block of fruit that goes into the single vineyard wines was picked on its own merit. The harvest extended from the 11th to the 24th March, meaning we had several passes through the vineyards ensuring optimal picking times for each parcel. While there are a lot of differences in the vineyard sites and styles of the five rieslings, we hope that balance, energy and a trueness to site are the constants.
Alter Weg Riesling 2019
This is a wine that we are happy to pick a little riper, allowing it to go into a fuller fruit spectrum. From making this wine we have learnt that, under our organic regime, natural acidity does not drop away (like it was prone to years ago). Instead, the rieslings go on developing flavour and friendliness. This more open, forward style of wine spends nine months in neutral oak; a combination of 500L to 1,200lt. This time on lees helps relax the wine and pull some of its terroir and secondary flavours.
“…there is juniper and white currant, brioche and spice. The wine is more rounded and softer, likely owing to its time in oak. The acidity has a tingly lightness…” Read more at erinlarkin.com.au
Poison Hill Vineyard Riesling 2019
A challenging year in this vineyard with the dry conditions affecting berry size. The wine however impresses with its resulting power. A conscious decision over recent years to embrace the riper spectrum of Poison Hill seems to be giving the wine greater individual personality and charm, power yet retaining elegance. Its white floral aromatics and pithy texture will reward cellaring.
“…A slightly more expressive nose between it and the Isolation Ridge, reminiscent somehow of lemon sherbet and clean white beach sand. The palate is inordinately intense, searing focus and line encased in an almost savoury spice capsule…” Read more at erinlarkin.com.au
Isolation Ridge Vineyard Riesling 2019
As is always the case, the Isolation Ridge Vineyard Riesling carries more purity and elegance than that of Poison Hill on release. The location in the south of the Frankland River region leads to conditions at our home vineyard and winery where more rain falls and the clouds linger, keeping things just that little bit cooler.
Ten months on lees in tank with a small portion (5%) barrel fermented and matured, the joined back to the final wine. The time on lees in tank and barrel are a critical component in helping these wines relax and find themselves, increasing both texture and personality of site. The additional time on lees has been a large part of the evolution of Frankland Estate rieslings. Bottled in December and rested in the cellars ready for release in May 2020.
“…This vintage of Isolation Ridge has every hallmark possible to indicate a virtual lifetime ahead of it in the cellar. The almost unbelievable fruit power and drive, and interminable length of flavour speak volumes…” Read more at erinlarkin.com.au
Isolation Ridge Vineyard Riesling 2010
Frankland Estate have retained a small quantity of Isolation Ridge Vineyard Riesling for release at 10 years of age. Each year with the release of the Single Vineyard Rieslings, a 10-year-old Isolation Ridge Vineyard Riesling wine will be released direct from the winery and to restaurants through our distribution partners.
We hope you enjoy seeing these wines (2019 & 2010) side by side. Much has changed in our minds when we compare these vintages, yet they are recognisably the same DNA. In 2010 lees contact lasted only 3 months, as a slightly fresher/tighter style was achieved. It was the first of our certified organic wines to hit the market, the start of a new era. RRP $65 (wine club and website sales, while stock lasts).
“…The 2010 has lost not a jot of its acidity which remains in place, now at the centre of a very different landscape of fruit flavour. The nose has a green peppercorn, bitumen, roasted salted macadamia vibe to it…” Read more at erinlarkin.com.au
SmithCullam Riesling 2019
With so much natural acidity hanging around in 2019, it was obvious from the onset that the possibility of making a SmithCullam Riesling was very much on the cards. Delicate and floral, the residual sugar (16grams) dissolves into the wine, appearing hardly “off dry” (which is, by the way, the intent). Floral and juicy is what we look for in the mineral drenched delicate framework. SmithCullam is a block selection from within the Isolation Ridge Vineyard.
“…The nose is exceptionally floral and fine. Shaved soap, limestone, a gust of sea breeze and more than a dollop of lime and crushed almond. The palate has salivating acidity and a rolling, tumbling texture which almost disguises the laser-like drive across the palate. It is not restrained but expansive…” Read more at erinlarkin.com.au
Isolation Ridge Vineyard surrounds the Frankland Estate Winery, 13km south of the Frankland River town site on ironstone gravel soils over a clay subsoil.
Poison Hill Vineyard is a granitic based soil type with predominantly underlying white clay soils. This vineyard is situated 3km north of the Frankland River town site and enjoys slightly dryer and warmer conditions through the season.
15km separates these two vineyards.
SUMMARY / WRAP
The rieslings of the Great Southern are well known for their ability to age. They unfurl very slowly over many years, reluctantly yielding their tight-fisted grip on acidity, tension and coil, eventually moving into a very graceful space, speaking of a subtle toastiness, spice and structure. The 2019 vintage release from Frankland Estate is the epitomy of the start of this evolutionary arc, and should you be wise enough to start cellaring these now (or perhaps you’re ahead of that game and have a collection already) you will be rewarded for many years to come. As I discuss in my tasting notes, the Poison Hill and the SmithCullam contain every bit of structure, acidity, spice and charm that I think Riesling needs for a stint in the cellar, and for my money, these are the two wines that absolutely do it for me. Having said that, the texture and personality of the Alter Weg makes that the wine that I am choosing to drink now. The Isolation Ridge are wines of structure and poise, and that 2010 proves the power of a bit of extra age. I’d love to see what these wines look like in ten years from now, the impact of (at that future time) two decades of organic management under the belt will have no doubt contributed a substantial whack of personality, site distinction and purity that may have been otherwise unobtainable. When the vines get the chance to speak for themselves, without the interference of sprays and external synthetic stimulants, the results are phenomenal, as these wines are. ‘-Erin Larkin’
Frankland River as a region has established a great name for producing top shiraz for a number of years. Planted as early as the late 1960’s, shiraz has established itself as a benchmark variety in the region. Through the early 2000’s Frankland Estate set about redefining shiraz from the region. A number of changes were implemented with the aim of highlighting the uniqueness of this part of the world and putting our cool climate and elegant style on the international map.
Whilst to most Frankland Estate is known foremost for its world class Rieslings it was, in fact, in the early 1990’s the Isolation Ridge Vineyard Shiraz and the Olmo’s Reward that gave Frankland Estate its early success.
The subsequent global success of riper bigger styles of Australian shiraz (think Barossa shiraz) through the late 1990’s and early noughties saw the more restrained style of shiraz (aka “syrah”) that we make at Frankland Estate slide under the radar somewhat. Today this has changed dramatically and the more elegant restrained, yet equally deep flavoured style of syrah has rejuvenated the awareness of our red wines.
With growing recognition of the stylistic connotations between the two terms syrah and shiraz it was decided this year to proceed with calling our single site and single vineyard wines syrah from here forward.
“There is no difference, physically, between Syrah and Shiraz: they are the same grape. It is all about style.” ….. Erin Larkin
Attention to detail
When a family have been dedicated and focused to one site for 30 years with the combined family experience of 120 vintages, the level of refinement and evolution is bound to pay dividends. This kind of viticultural intimacy, required to make truly great wine, is the sort that can be seen in our team at Frankland Estate. Our daily routines in the vineyard and winery show great thoughtfulness and minute attention to detail. This level of fine tuning and knowledge only comes from living and breathing the vineyard life we live.
Organic viticulture pays dividends
We strongly believe that the second generation of Frankland Estate, through Elizabeth, Brian and Hunter are certainly taking the wines to new heights. It also seems that calculated foresight in our family’s viticultural approach has catapulted the current release syrah to new levels. The super-premium quality we are now tasting in our syrah is due not only to organic viticulture, which began back in 2005 with certification in 2009 onwards, but also this forward thinking approach to the style of wines. Organic viticulture was one element which came out of a desire for healthier, happier and stronger vines. With this a lift in yields has eventuated (albeit very modest) resulting in some longer hang times, giving fruit the time needed to ripen well but slowly. Combined with the cooler aspect of the southern part of the Frankland River region, we are achieving fresher, crunchier and brighter wines.
Minimal intervention in the winery
In the winery there has also been some evolving calculated changes, brought aboutby improved grape quality through organic production and advancing vine age. In essence these hark back to the ongoing belief that great wines are made in the vineyard. The quality of fruit stipulates the intervention needed on the wine making front when talking wine making techniques, as the adage of “less is more” comes into full swing. Gentle fermentations to minimise tannin extraction have been an ongoing goal to increase textural delicacy, a trait seen in the very best examples of fine syrah. Smaller ferments, or rather shallower ferments aid in gentle extraction at lower temperatures providing finer tannins. With better health and balance in the vineyard we have also seen more even and slower ripening. Hand harvesting of bunches that have seen full lignification, or “yellowing” of stems, provide the winemaking team with the ability to utilise whole bunch fermentation. This is done with small select parcels and the results are compelling, giving some parcels an added degree of freshness and crunchy fruit tones. This brightness and tannin structure (a faint stemmy “ash” characteristic) can then be beautifully interwoven into the remaining syrah wines; the blends resulting in far greater complexity.
New Syrah clones
New clones have increasingly become a topic of conversation amongst the vineyard and wine boffins. Frankland Estate has very much taken this up and included two new clones of syrah in our Isolation Ridge Vineyard. These clones provide some slightly different bunch characteristics not only in appearance but in taste and texture. Seen as a chance to trial some new material in the aim of providing greater complexity, the new syrah clones 174 and 470 are from the heart of the Rhône Valley and whilst exerting all the quintessential classic syrah characteristic they can vary in flavour very subtly and provide an extra dimension to our final syrah wines.
Innovations with oak
After a visit to the Rhône Valley in 2004 a decision was made to work with large format French oak barrels, the 300 litre hogshead barrels traded in for 500 litre Puncheons. However continual refinement of the way we use the French oak has also been important to allow the subtlety of ironstone terroir to be revealed. For the 2018 vintage a 3,500 litre French oak foudre was purchased and this has been truly exciting evolution as the wine can now rest on its lees providing an unmatched elegance and poise to the wine. With another foudre purchased for the 2019 harvest, drinkers of Isolation Ridge Syrah will see the results of some of these subtle and exciting changes.
Blending varieties in Syrah
On top of the new syrah clones we have also experimented with a range of grape varieties over the years, such as mourvédre, viognier and touriga nacional. Our ideas have come from our global travels and uncompromising dedication to drinking as many truly fine syrah wines as we possibly can from all over the world. It is a tough job - but someone has to do it. Mourvédre was considered for its ability to have complexity of savoury notes and incredible intensity of flavour without taking on a big demeanour. Mourvedre will provide an exciting point of complexity for us to consider in blending the final wine for Isolation Ridge Syrah and Frankland Estate Shiraz. Viognier was planted again in the Isolation Ridge Vineyard in 1998 with the aim of building different dimensions into our syrah wines. Viognier provides texture and softness to syrah, a delicious moreishness and aromatic lift with the smallest of additions. After many trials it is common place for viognier to be added to select ferments of shiraz the day of harvest at about 5% which after blending with different ferments makes up around 2% of the final wines. Touriga nacional, has recently been planted in the Isolation Ridge Vineyard. The first vintage in 2018 was a truly exciting success and we have made a single varietal wine. We have also used it in the Frankland Estate Shiraz wine, in only a very small percentage and will continue to refine and use it more in our premium shiraz blends into the future.
What the future holds
We will continue to evolve the style of our shiraz, with a combination of new clones, new varietals, and the gentle evolution of wine making techniques. This will support the benefits of an increasing vine age and enhance our shiraz wines, providing a very exciting foundation for the future.